Just like clock work you can hear their melody every hour on the hour and every fifteen minutes in-between. It may not look like Big Ben or sound like St. Peter’s Basilica on Easter morning, but this modest little chapel draped amongst San Francisco’s historic fishing fleet, provides the sweet sound of its bells for all to hear. Built over 30 years ago, the Fishermen’s and Seamen’s Memorial Chapel has served as a haven for visitors, locals and most importantly as a memorial for those lost to the sea.
The bronze plaques in the foyer, immediately past the entry doors, display the names of those brave souls who never made it back to the safety of land, home and family. Names like Alioto, Balestrieri, Lazio and Caito to name just a few. Herb Caen’s name, one of the greatest supporters of the chapel, is proudly displayed amongst the names of some of the oldest fishing families whose lineage goes back to the old Sicilians who came to this great country of ours in search of a better life, plying their trade, oblivious to the dangers that they faced every day.
The most prominent figure, and greatest supporter of this great project, is Alessandro Baccari, a well know historian, educator, author, and consultant to many of today’s modernized fishing enterprises. With Alessandro’s vision the chapel took shape many years ago. Not long ago a campaign was initiated to build a campanile next to the chapel itself. Again, through Baccari’s determination and fund raising efforts, the tower became a reality. With great pride and anticipation the bronze bell, that was cast in 1860, and donated by the Port of San Francisco was rung for the first time as proud onlooker’s cheered, the workers’ arms covered in goose bumps.
A final fund raising event was successfully held shortly after the completion of the campanile and was attended by all the members of the local fishing community. A board of directors has been set up to manage and maintain this unique landmark. The chapel itself is open to all faiths and has been home to weddings, ceremonies, celebrations and sadly, funerals for those family members that have given so generously to the lives of every bay area resident.
The chapel is used over 200 days a year and is far more than just a tourist attraction. Located across from Pier 45, it provides peace and solace to those looking for a moment of spirituality away from the crowds that engulf Fisherman’s Wharf on a daily basis.
In addition to the weekly Sunday mass, the chapel is home to the “Blessing of the Fishing Fleet” a celebration that is held on the first weekend of October. It is locally known as “La Madonna del Lume” a tradition that had its roots in medieval times, and was brought to San Francisco by Mrs. Rosa Tarantino in 1936.
To the more than twelve million tourists that visit the Wharf annually the main attraction will always be the shops, the restaurants, Pier 39 and of course the sea lions. But to those living and working in the area of Fisherman’s Wharf the sound from the Carillion bells, capable of hundreds of different melodies, will always be a reminder of the hard work and dedication of the Italian immigrants of years past to the many races and nationalities that ply the bay and oceans of today.
Perhaps your next visit should be to the Fishermen’s and Seamen’s Chapel to see yet another side of San Francisco, one that will certainly be more rewarding and hold more charm than a pantomime or street artist. Take a minute to listen to the waves breaking on shore, the boats’ masts singing in the wind and imagine life as it was at the turn of the century. So much history and such an amazing place from which to relive it.
